Project (cont'd) Onto Garment Designer

It should be no surprise that I use Garment Designer software for everything, given that I am the software designer and owner of Cochenille, the company that develops the program. Over the years, no matter how many times I use the software, I still get a charge, each time I sit down and create something. I often chuckle to myself, as I find that I can create the pattern and have it printing out, long before I would find the keys to the car to go to the fabric store.

Before I start making the pattern, I generally make myself go through the following list of questions..
1. What basic pattern pieces will I need?
2. Do I need any additions (e.g., facings, extensions, etc.)
3. Do I need any extra pieces (e.g., bands, pockets, etc.)


I chose to build the basic pattern for this project, while at the Novi Show. That way, I would know exactly how much fabric to purchase. So… in Garment Designer, I began by choosing my personal Sloper. This way, the program knows my personal body, and I can avoid the typical pattern alterations I would have to perform to a standard size. I no longer need to shorten the waist, narrow the shoulders, and adjust the sleeve length. What joy!



Next, I chose the following style options:
Top Group: Contoured
Top Style: Bolero Curve
Shoulder: Sloped
Neck Group: V
Neck Style: Medium Curved
Darts: None
Sleeve Group: Cap
Cap Style: Straight



Next, I used the ability to edit points and lines to move the armhole of the sleeve down some, and to move the neckline back just a bit. I turned on the view of both sides of the front, turned Front/Back symmetry off, and then edited the center front of the garment so that the fronts would overlap slightly, to allow for my button.



I then, used an Extra, called Edging, and chose the edging for the hem of the garment. This allowed Garment Designer to measure around the hem of the garment and create a straight band edging. I wanted it to be gathered slightly, so I chose to change the Hem Edging Attach: to 1.5:1. This is probably more than I want (in fullness), but for the moment, I shall plan for it, and look at it pinned on the garment prior to sewing. I often work this way.


Once all was in order, I saved the file. Then, I added seam allowances, and turned on the Final Pattern view, which would be me notches for matching.







Fabric Needs?
To determine how much fabric I would need, I requested the Pattern Layout option in the Generate menu. A new window opened, and in this window I could drag my pieces around, flip them, rotate them, etc., to determine how much fabric I would need. This is just like doing a layout on your real fabric. I LOVE this feature. It has always been a game to me, to see how good of a layout I can get.


At this point, I went over to Haberman’s booth and bought the fabric. I needed 5/8 yards. I generally buy just a little extra, for testing, etc. So I purchased 3/4 yard.

More to be continued… as the project commences.




Next will be the challenge (and fun) of finding the yarn.